Indiana Alice and the Lost City

Draa Expedition Alice Morrison Women Explorer


When I was writing up the brief for this trip for sponsors and press releases, I blithely put in that I would be searching for lost cities. I didn’t actually think that I would find one.

We were just coming out of the mountains about to re-enter the rich farmland of the cultivated Draa valley and were at our last encampment before we were due to meet up with Expedition organiser Jean-Pierre Datcharry the next day. He was coming in to reprovision us and also to take me round some of the 4000 year old rock carvings that lay about 3 km further on.

Alisdair snacking

We had camped up not far from a small oasis in a cleared circle amongst a rubble of rocks in what was clearly an old settlement of some kind. It made perfect sense with the oasis near by. We had all trooped off to do our washing in the water and Addi and Brahim C had spent half an hour competing to see who could knock the most dates down from the palms. I collected them up in the hood of my jellaba and we ate them with our soup that night.

Brahim G had already been up the mountain behind the camp to send our GPS point to the authorities which is something we are obliged to do every evening and told me there was signal on the very top. I hadn’t had any for four days and needed to do some Whatsapp messaging and a couple of social media posts so I climbed up to the top and arrived breathless after a 20 minute clamber.

I was sitting on a big, flat rock typing away happily when I looked up and around and thought, “That looks like a ruined building in front of me.” I stuck my phone in my pocket and climbed down to investigate. It was very clearly a two-chambered house or shelter of some kind and as I looked around I saw more buildings scattered around. They were all made of piled stone and none had roofs.. They reminded me a bit of crofters’ houses in Scotland. I didn’t have time to do more exploring because the sun was fading fast and I wanted to get down the uncertain
rocky slope before I ran out of light.

The next day, Jean-Pierre arrived early and when I told him what I had found he said it was probably a look out post for the ruins of the village we were camped in but that he would come up and have a look with me. We climbed up again and when we got to the top, the full extend of what we were looking at became apparent in the clearer light of day. The ruins stretched over the entire hill top, round the next peak and onto the next valley. “C’est énorme,” said JP, “Impressionante.”

He has over 40 years of experience exploring in this area but had no idea this place existed and had seen no records of it – so of course I was jumping around with glee at the thought that I had actually discovered a lost city. When I say “lost” I know that local nomads and shepherds will have walked over these ruins many times…. But still. From now on, just call me Indiana Alice.

JP speculated that it probably dated back around 4000 years to the same era as the nearby rock carvings and existed at a time when the surrounding environment would have been very different. Now it is bare rock, with the occasional oasis, but then it was more richly covered with vegetation and there were enough wild animals to support hunter gatherer communities. There was a lot more water.

Still popping with excitement, we walked on to the rock carvings. There are hundreds of them, covering the rocks with their battle scenes of armed horsemen doing battle. They are crude but also detailed: you can see the sharp hooks coming out of the lances and the shields that the knights hold.

The ostrich family

There are two that I am particularly fascinated by. The first is a huge flock of ostriches complete with babies and some very large eggs. They are in full flight and you can almost see them running with their long stride and short, paddling wings. The second is of a camel train with some Lybic script running down the side of it. Generations ago, a writer came here with camels and recorded his experiences on the rock. Today, I am here with my camels, writing down my experiences. Countless years separate us from each other and yet we are two people doing exactly the same thing across time.

This expedition is organised by Jean-Pierre Datcharry of Desert et Montagne Maroc and sponsored by Craghoppers, Epic Morocco and NTT Data.

8 comments on “Indiana Alice and the Lost City

  1. Francesca on

    Dear Amazing Alice Hunter Morrison,
    I have just begun following your amazing journey in Morocco. I envy your adventurous & brave spirit. I also, thank you for sharing them. If I were younger and had the resources, I would surely be an adventurous some what like you. Continue to explore and share with the world. You are Amazing!

    Reply
  2. Alison Colyer on

    Love this. The sense of wonder and excitement and that link across the centuries of others following the same path. What riches you are finding and seeing on this journey. From the comfort of my armchair I am loving the adventures of Indiana Alice!

    Reply
  3. Kathryn Bullock on

    Wow that’s such exciting news Alice. So many amazing adventures and stories to share. I’m really enjoying them. Keep ’em coming.

    Reply
  4. Richard Winter on

    I’m not at all surprised that it has gone undetected, I have vivid memories from when I trekked in the Atlas Mountains of how difficult it was to see the summer settlements high up on the hillsides that the shepherds used. What historic memories such places must have. The settlements were on rocky hillsides and made from rock from the hillside so not really surprising that they’re well camouflaged. How exciting for you to find a new village though.

    Reply

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